Friday, June 21, 2024

Reflections on 12 Years in Argentina: From New York to Cordoba

We've officially marked 12 years of living in Argentina. Okay, so I didn't exactly throw a party or anything, but I've been reflecting a lot lately on what we've achieved since we moved here in 2012. Was coming here worth the hassle? Well, join me as I evaluate this decision that has seemingly left us financially unable to return home.

Let's rewind to 2009 when I was working for a New York company called Epiq Bankruptcy Solutions. After about two years of temping, I finally landed a temp-to-perm position at Epiq. This company handled all the bankruptcy paperwork for giants like Chrysler and Lehman Brothers. My role? Data entry for the daily claims we received. There was an overwhelming amount of work—so much so that the company had us, temps and full-timers alike, working from 11 am until 10 or 11 pm, Saturdays included. We were clocking close to 90 hours a week. But the upside of being worked to the bone was the time-and-a-half pay for overtime and company-paid dinners (up to $25 a night), plus a chauffeur to drive us home. The hours were brutal, but the pay and perks made it somewhat worthwhile. Eight months into my first year, I was hired full-time, which meant a pay raise and some limited benefits.

Epiq Bankruptcy Solutions

Then, a few months later, the claims we'd been feverishly entering started drying up. Suddenly, those fat paychecks barely covered our bills. And then, to add insult to injury, Epiq decided to lay off a large chunk of their workforce—myself included. The severance pay they gave us was a joke, barely two weeks' worth, and then New York taxes swooped in and took half of that. I was screwed, barely scraping by to cover rent and essentials. What little was left was spent on basic groceries like eggs and JELL-O packets. I'd never been in such a dire situation. I'd given my all to Epiq, only to be tossed aside like garbage. To be fair, they did this to other hardworking folks like me as well.

With our time and money running out, I hit up every temp agency I'd ever registered with, scrambling for another temp-to-perm gig. At first, all I found were meager assignments, many lasting only a day or a week. But money was money, and we needed it—especially with my husband in college full-time, needing funds for transportation and food.

By mid-2011, I landed a longer-term assignment at Bank of New York. My job was redacting client info from documents, scanning them, and filing the paperwork away. The pay was $12 an hour, no overtime, but it had two things Epiq didn't: a stunning city view from the cafeteria and no office drama. Epiq was a cesspool of personality clashes; at least Bank of New York wasn't that.

Bank of New York - Cafeteria

But even with this job, we barely scraped by in our shoebox apartment in the Bronx. Eventually, the assignment ended and I was relying on unemployment benefits, which sucked! 

After months of failed attempts to land a decent-paying job, my husband and I made a tough call: we decided to move to Argentina.

It was my last choice. Though I was born there, my folks took me away when I was five. I grew up American, knew no other customs but those of the States. My husband was Puerto Rican by ancestry, but red, white and blue like me. What the hell were we going to do in Argentina, a place whose culture was starkly different from any American or Latin culture we knew in the States?

My parents had retired to Argentina in 2007, buying several properties with their US dollars. Buying a home with a few thousand dollars in Argentina was a cakewalk—thanks to the peso's devaluation.

So, when they offered us one of their homes, the pros were obvious:

  • A mortgage-free home (still had to pay property taxes)
  • Fully furnished (bonus!)
  • Gay marriage was legal
We still had a couple of dollars in our Chase bank account, which would undoubtedly last us for several months until we landed a decent job in Argentina.

Now here are the pros that my parents told us about, but turned out to be bullshit:
  • Argentines are eager to hire Americans
  • Argentines adore Americans
  • Argentina has the world's best economy
  • President Kirchner wiped out all debt

Argentina seemed too good to be true, but we trusted my parents and set our plan into motion. When our lease ended, we moved in with my husband's aunt and uncle, saving up for the big move.

A lot went down during those final months. My husband graduated, we married, and packed our lives into four giant boxes and four pieces of luggage.

Then, departure day came.

Goodbyes were said, we boarded the plane, and waved goodbye to the US—seemingly forever.

Then mid-flight in, a pang hit my gut. Was this a warning? Had I screwed up? The old saying, "If it's too good to be true, it probably is," echoed in my mind.

But it was too late. I was onboard, committed to my decision.

I'd convinced myself Argentina was America with a Latin twist. But when I landed, I was reminded: this was nothing like the US. Roads and homes were rundown, shops scarce, and there were folks on horseback hauling goods.

Luckily, our new Argentine home was as promised—peaceful, free from the Bronx's usual raucous.

Finding work wasn't as easy as my mom promised. Weeks bled into months. Two years in and we still had no jobs. Freelance writing kept us afloat for several years, but we felt isolated in this foreign land.

We longed for friends, family, and the familiar fast-food joints and restaurants we used to frequent back home. In our host province of Cordoba, options were limited to Burger King, McDonald's, and at the time, Subway. We missed the variety of junk food, pizza and other dishes that we were accustomed to. For those wondering why we obsess over food from home, it's not just about the flavors (though that's part of it). It's about the cherished memories that certain restaurants, some of which have since closed down, evoke.

Over the years, we made trips to Buenos Aires, the Argentine capital that has a more Americanized vibe with its restaurants and atmosphere. This provided some relief from our homesickness for a while.

Meanwhile, on  the job front, we ended up working for some real assholes who repeatedly took advantage of us. Our job hunt was a bust too—temp agencies down here didn't give a damn. Then Zach started teaching English, and I realized we could actually offer a service people here needed: English lessons from native speakers. The pay sucks, but at least we call the shots, set our hours, and don't answer to anyone.

However, while we've found more peace here financially, safety's a whole different story. The Argentine economy's tanked, and crime's shot up. My once-quiet neighborhood's crawling with thieves, eyeing up houses like ours for an easy score. They've tried breaking in, tampered with our gas meter, even vandalized our place. They also successfully stole shit from our house in 2016 that's irreplaceable.

Some folks say we shouldn't let fear rule our lives or force us to live like hermits. Yeah, well, losing our laptops isn't an option. We need them to make a living. Our budget's tight; replacing stuff isn't easy. We thought about alarms, but these crooks know how to disable them. House sitters? Forget it. They'd rob us blind too. So, we stick to ourselves—a bubble within Argentina. It's like living in a pocket universe of the U.S. like an embassy, minus the guards or diplomatic immunity.

Outside our door is Argentina, and we keep it that way. Trust has been shattered here in the past. We've had crappy experiences with other expats and locals. So, we've chosen isolation. It's kept us sane and shielded us from further letdowns and betrayals.

Sure, people tell us we complain too much. Others claim we blame others for our mess. But hell, we've done the best we can. Sometimes the right choice at the time turned out to be a clusterfuck. That's just life. But despite the bumps along the way, we've stuck together, found joy in our shows, movies, video games and damn good food!

So, heading back home—even for a visit—looks really bleak right now, especially with Argentina's economic mess. But we're survivors and we'll keep fighting to find peace and happiness in Argentina, come hell or high water.

Thursday, May 9, 2024

Navigating the Rising Crime Rate in Argentina in 2024

It's no secret to anyone living in Argentina that the country's crime rate has been on the rise over the past few months. While Argentina has never been entirely free of crime, the recent escalation is concerning. Unfortunately, my own experiences have not been immune to this surge in criminal activity.

A few weeks back, during broad daylight, someone attempted to break into our house by tampering with the front door handle. Their mistake was attempting it while we were home. We heard the noise and, upon unlocking the door, caught a glimpse of the culprit through a small window. Despite my immediate pursuit, I found myself defenseless as I had forgotten any means of protection. Though I wanted to confront the intruder, the risk of legal repercussions restrained me to issuing a stern warning before letting him go.
Thankfully, there were no further encounters with that particular individual. However, a couple of weeks later, another incident occurred.

I was resting in my room around 1 pm due to a headache when a loud crash startled us. Reacting swiftly, my husband and I searched for the source of the noise, fearing a potential break-in. 

To our confusion, there were no signs of forced entry, yet our internet cable was missing, the modem damaged, and items displaced.
The sight of the torn-out cable left us in disbelief; the force required seemed beyond human capability. Despite the unsettling situation, our internet provider promptly replaced the cable in under two hours, allowing us to resume our daily online teaching activities.

The technician speculated two possible motives: theft for profit or malicious intent. Both scenarios, unfortunately, align with the increasing trend of criminal activities in our area. Our neighborhood's history of bullying, vandalism, and theft makes neither explanation surprising.

But these incidents are indicative of a broader societal issue. The proliferation of firearms has escalated crimes from petty theft to armed assaults throughout Argentina. 

A recent incident involving a robbery on a subway, documented by a Russian expat, underscores the pervasive sense of insecurity in this country.

While poverty may contribute to criminal behavior, it does not excuse it. Those who resort to theft, vandalism, or violence are simply reprehensible.

Argentina's current political landscape may play a role, but it cannot justify such behavior. It's disheartening to witness the deterioration of safety and civility in our community.

Check out these selected news articles from CBA24N, a website covering news in Cordoba and occasionally other provinces. They highlight incidents of robbery and weapon use, just a glimpse into a larger trend.















Sunday, April 28, 2024

The Amazing Race Came to Cordoba City... But There Was a Twist

The Amazing Race, spanning 36 seasons, has ventured across different Argentine provinces like Buenos Aires and Mendoza. However, in a notable turn, Season 36, Episode 6 marked its debut in Cordoba City, with an intriguing production twist that I'll delve into shortly.

For some reason, witnessing locales we've frequented over the past 12 years on television felt significant to us.

As depicted in the screenshots I captured from the episode, the majority of the challenges unfolded in downtown Cordoba and Nueva Cordoba.

As you can see, the aerial shots of the city were amazing.

The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina
The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina
The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina
The teams read their clues by the Cañada, which is basically a canal that crosses the city and is generally a great place to take photos, when you're not racing on "The Amazing Race."
The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina
The teams also visited Plaza Bicentenario to get their next clues.
The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina
One of the challenges involved riding these stationary bikes that  actually crush plastic bottles to prep them for recycling.
The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina
The teams also went to Plaza Sarmiento, which had been turned into a farm for this particular challenge. There were bales of hay and even a guy dressed as a gaucho (Argentine cowboy). I'd like to point out that no one dresses like this in Argentina. In fact, in the 12 years I have lived in Argentina, I have never seen a gaucho. That's not to say they don't exist, but it's not the norm in the city. Think of it like this. Cowboys are synonymous with the United States. Right? But how often do you see one walking around New York City. Alright, maybe the Naked Cowboy in Times Square, but that's an exception.
The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina
Also, I'd like to mention that Parque Sarmiento doesn't have bales of hays or a contraption like this. Actually, you might see some hale in the former site of the Cordoba City Zoo, but that's about it. Most of the time, you'll simply see people jogging or enjoying a nice picnic.
The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina
Another challenge that followed was this rally car race where teams had to drive a specific path and finish the course within a short amount of time.
The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina
Then, they had to complete a puzzle that depicted the route they had driven before moving on to the next challenge.
The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina
The following challenge involved the teams going to this stadium (I don't remember the name of it) and playing soccer. But the players had to score a goal while wearing these inflatable bubbles.
The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina
The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina
For the final challenge, contestants had to learn what parts of the cow the different types of meat in front of them came from. Afterwards, they went to another location and placed them in the correct order. 
The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina
The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina
And finally, with their final clues, it was time to head to Plaza San Martin to meet Phil at the mat.
The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina
The contestants were greeted by Phil and an Argentine dressed in ancient colonial uniform. I can only assume that he was playing Jose de San Martin, a military commander.  But again, it goes without saying that this was simply for the show. You won't see people dressed like this in Argentina. 
The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina

Now, onto the twist I mentioned earlier. Despite airing in April 2024, the episode was actually filmed three years prior.

This revelation came to light when one of my students mentioned being acquainted with the individual overseeing the car racing segment (pictured below).

The Amazing Race in Cordoba City, Argentina

According to their friend, the show filmed in Cordoba City in 2021, which astounded me. While I had assumed "The Amazing Race" typically filmed their seasons six months to a year before airing, the idea of Season 36 being shot so long ago never crossed my mind. This may well account for Cordoba City's pristine appearance in the episode. When I say pristine, I refer to its lack of overcrowding, clean streets, and relatively graffiti-free environment. 2021 marked a period when the Covid pandemic was beginning to recede. So the locals were just starting to come out of their homes and socialize again.

Also, given that neither the contestants nor the locals were attired in winter clothing, it suggests filming likely took place in late 2021, during Argentina's spring/summer season.

Regardless of the filming timeline, it was heartening to witness Cordoba City receiving screen time. I can only hope this exposure encourages more visits from Americans and potentially attract American businesses to Argentina's second-largest city. Naturally, they'll need to contend with the recent increase in thefts and dengue cases, but that's a tale for another occasion.

Big Mamma's: A Rollercoaster Ride of New York-Style Pizza in Cordoba City

Earlier this year, we stumbled upon a new pizzeria in Cordoba City, but this wasn't just your run-of-the-mill pizza joint. Big Mamma's boasted New York-style pizza! I mean, seriously? Could it be that my prayers had finally been answered? American-style pizza right here in Cordoba City? 


Now, let me tell you, Cordoba hasn't exactly been a stranger to attempts at this before. A few years back, there was the Chicago American Grill, dishing out large-sized Chicago pizza slices with American flavors. Then came PIBI, claiming to offer New York-style pizza. But let's be real, compared to some of the top-notch American pizza joints in Buenos Aires like Hell's Pizza and Sbarro, Cordoba's attempts at American pizzas were, well, mediocre at best.


Still, this was a new spot, and my hubby and I just had to give Big Mamma's a shot. So, we placed an order for some pepperoni and regular cheese slices through one of the local delivery apps.


We were feeling a tad nervous, having shelled out close to 30,000 Argentine pesos for 8 slices (34.25 USD), with no clue if they'd actually resemble genuine New York-style pizza. What if they turned out to be those puny Argentine pizzas that barely satisfy one person, let alone two? And would the cheese taste anything like the cheese back home, or would it be more akin to feet, like most Argentine cheese pizzas?


When the order finally arrived, our anxiety levels shot up even higher. In the States, the delivery person usually hands you one big box containing an entire pizza. But here, our delivery driver had more than one box. It turned out that the restaurant had simply divided the slices into multiple boxes, making it easier for the delivery guy, who was zipping around on a motorcycle instead of a car like they do back in the States.

Big Mamma's New York Style Pizza

At that point, though, hunger trumped any concerns about pizza packaging. All we cared about was whether those slices would be big enough and taste as good as the ones back home.

Big Mamma's New York Style Pizza
Big Mamma's New York Style Pizza

Sure, the cheese was a bit runny, and the wax paper underneath got stuck to the crust, but man, those pizza slices were delicious!

Big Mamma's New York Style Pizza

Each bite was a revelation, eliciting tears, smiles, and sounds one might typically reserve for the bedroom. Big Mamma's seemed like a winner, or so we thought.


Now, pizzas weren't the only items on Big Mamma's menu. They also dabbled in burgers and sandwiches, featuring flavors like pulled pork (my personal favorite!) and the Philly cheesesteak sandwich. So, on our next order, we decided to try the Philly cheesesteak, and boy, was it a letdown.

Big Mamma's Philly Cheesesteak
Philly Cheesesteak

I've had my fair share of Philly cheesesteaks, and let me tell you, they don't usually come with cheddar cheese. It's not that I have anything against cheddar per se, but the cheddar cheese here in Argentina isn't really cheddar at all. It's what we'd call American cheese. As a result, the cheese completely overwhelmed the taste of the meat (and not in a good way), and the steak strips were way too fatty to enjoy.


This made me apprehensive about trying the pulled pork sandwich next time, but surprisingly, it turned out to be pretty darn good. My only gripe? Big Mamma's advertises it with cole slaw, but the last few times I ordered, there was no slaw in sight.

Big Mamma's Pulled Pork Sandwich
Pulled Pork Sandwich

A few weeks later, we decided to go for pizza again. Obviously, pepperoni was at the top of our list, because, let's face it, Argentines aren't big on pepperoni. In fact, most Argentine pizzerias don't even know what pepperoni is. So ordering pizza with pepperoni was a rare commodity.

Big Mamma's New York Style Pizza

Well, imagine our dismay when, in what must have been our fifth order from Big Mamma's, we discovered something seriously off about our pepperoni. I found myself pulling at what felt like strings. To this day, I'm not sure if it was dried-out edges or burnt pepperoni, but those edges were downright inedible, as you can see in the photo I provided.

Big Mamma's New York Style Pizza

I figured maybe it was just a one-time fluke. Wishful thinking, right? Nope. I encountered those inedible pepperoni edges two more times.


So, a few weeks ago, we decided to give Big Mamma's another shot, opting for two different flavored slices alongside a couple of regular pepperoni and cheese slices.


One was a barbecue chicken slice with bacon called the King Kong, and the other was a meatball with cheddar slice.

Big Mamma's King Kong Pizza
The King Kong Pizza slice was a Huge Disappointment

We had high hopes for both toppings, but alas, we were met with disappointment. The barbecue chicken slices had a measly four or five chicken pieces, and the bacon bits weren't much better. Plus, the barbecue sauce was more of a drizzle than anything else, nowhere near the generous slathering they'd teased on social media. And the letdown continued when we tried the meatball with cheddar slice.


The meatballs tasted like your typical ground beef in Argentina, which is to say, something comparable to rotten meat. And the advertised meatball pizza slice gave the impression that it would come with whole meatballs, but what we got was a few sad, burnt-looking, and foul-smelling meatball pieces. And as for the cheddar, we expected it to be baked into the crust, like a stuffed crust cheese pizza from Pizza Hut. But nope, just another lackluster drizzle of cheddar on top.

Big Mamma's Meatballs
The slice on the right is the meatball slice

And as for the regular pepperoni cheese slices? They had this weird, plasticky appearance that left us wondering just how old those pizza slices were.

Big Mamma's New York Style Pizza

But did we learn our lesson? Nope.

During our last order, the slices came with burnt crusts.

Big Mamma's New York Style Pizza

I'm not sure what's gone wrong with Big Mamma's. Did they change management? Did they throw in the towel? Or did the locals persuade them to switch to churning out the same bland, mediocre pizza that's all too common around here? Who knows? But what I do know is that they've started adding items to their menu that make zero sense, like meat or chicken skewers or even chicken steaks and pork chops. I wouldn't be surprised if they started serving empanadas too, completely defeating the purpose of their New York-style food gimmick.


In the end, if we do end up ordering from Big Mamma's again, it'll probably only be for the pulled pork sandwich or the regular cheese slices, if we're desperate enough.