Fireworks and Farewells: Ending a Marriage Abroad

 

Despite the looting, protests, strikes, and civil unrest, the Christmas spirit was alive and well in Córdoba City, Argentina. Under our roof, though, it was a different story. But I’ll get to that in a moment.

For a country facing an economic crisis, Cordobeses were surprisingly generous with their spending. The uplifting part is that, despite the challenges, most people in the province seemed genuinely happy. I wish I could say I was among them, but I wasn't.

Last year was tough for me. It was my first Christmas in Argentina, and my husband, Zach, was in New York with his family. This year, I was fortunate to spend the holidays with him, but it was bittersweet for a heartbreaking reason.

After twelve years together—of which we’ve been legally married for a year and nine months—we’ve mutually decided to end our marriage. If you’d asked me whether I saw this coming, my answer would have been no.

We’ve been through so much together. It just doesn’t seem right that our relationship has to end. Still, something has felt off lately. I started noticing it over the past few weeks. While I’ve been excited about starting school next year, my husband has felt like an emotional blank slate. It’s almost as though the happier I’ve become, making new friends and managing my social anxiety through medication and therapy, the further away he’s drifted.

I can only assume that the stress of living abroad, combined with the financial and emotional challenges we’ve faced, led him to want to end things. That’s right. It wasn’t initially my idea. The conversation started with me trying to snap him out of what I thought was a growing depression. It ended with him telling me he didn’t love me anymore because he couldn’t feel anything at all.

I’ll admit, I'm very angry. I left my friends and my life in the States behind for him, so he could have access to the free healthcare he needed if the Big C that took his father and grandparents in 2008, ever came for him too. I moved to Argentina to give him a better quality of life, including a home of our own. This was something we never had in New York. What we did have were toxic family dynamics on his side. He hated them and wanted to get as far away as possible. So I helped him do that.

The moment he said he didn’t love me, I went into my room and started tearing up every love note he had ever written me. For some reason, it felt therapeutic. It was as if everything in those notes had been a lie, and destroying them meant they could no longer make me feel a love that was clearly one-sided.

Despite my initial anger, we decided to remain friends. For now, we’ll continue living under the same roof, supporting each other as we try to adjust to life in this fucking country.

On December 24th, we enjoyed a quiet Christmas Eve dinner with our expat friend Brian. We kept things low-key this year, unlike our big Thanksgiving celebration partly due to budget constraints and partly because of our recent breakup. But we still had a wonderful time.

After dinner, we relaxed in the living room and watched a couple of movies. Being huge sci-fi fans, we chose Terminator Salvation and Pandorum on my Blu-ray player.

Later, we went outside to watch the fireworks. In Argentina, people light fireworks at midnight as if it were New Year’s Eve. I captured some video footage, which I’ve added below the photo of the fireworks.

With most of our friends either visiting family in the States or scattered across nearby provinces, I expect New Year’s Eve to be pretty quiet. Honestly, I can’t wait to say goodbye to this heartbreaking 2013 and welcome 2014.

Maybe the new year will bring something different into my life. Happiness, new friendships, or even a new love. All are welcome, as far as I’m concerned. I just want a reason to live, which feels like something I’ve been lacking lately.

I hope all my friends, both in the States and Argentina, and of course my readers from around the world, had a fantastic Christmas.

The Jesuit Crypt – Exploring a Piece of Cordoba’s Past

The Jesuit Crypt was built centuries ago in Cordoba City... at least according to a pamphlet the curator gave me. It was originally designed to serve the Jesuits, but was later converted into a crypt and crematorium. The Jesuits were a religious order within the Catholic Church, devoted to the teachings of Jesus Christ. Some say the space may have even been used as a training area for Jesuit followers. It was eventually abandoned after the Jesuits were expelled.

Original entrance into the crypt that was buried by construction long ago

Over time, the city’s urban expansion caused the crypt to be buried and forgotten. It wasn’t until 1989 that it was accidentally rediscovered. That's when the city then began restoring it, eventually turning the site into a historical landmark.

Modern day entrance into the crypt

I must have passed the Jesuit Crypt dozens of times since arriving in Argentina, but I never once thought about going inside. Maybe I hesitated because I’m not religious. Still, Brian, a fellow expat, eventually talked me into visiting, and I agreed out of sheer curiosity. 

3D Map of the crypt's interior

Walking beneath the city into the museum felt a bit like stepping into an Egyptian tomb. Alright! So it wasn't a pyramid but it may be the closest thing I get to one in my lifetime. There wasn’t much to see or do, unfortunately, but it was still fascinating. A few ancient artifacts were displayed behind glass, and I even caught a glimpse of the original entrance to the crypt.

Recovered artifacts

It felt incredible to be standing in this place. I couldn’t help but imagine the history held within those walls. I also couldn’t shake the sense that the crypt was holding onto something unseen. As I said, I'm not God-fearing, but I'm not completely skeptical about the afterlife either. Could it be that the people who once occupied this space hadn’t truly left? Well, I suppose they must have left since they were expelled. But someone might have remained.

Decomposition chamber where the dead were placed and covered with quicklime to mask the stench and speed up the decomposition process

It took Brian and I about 15 minutes to tour the entire underground crypt. Then again, it only cost 5 Argentine pesos (80 U.S. cents), so that wasn’t too bad either. 

So whether you’re a fan of history or archaeology, I highly recommend you take a moment to visit the Jesuit Crypt.

Update March 24, 2026: My original visit took place in late 2023, but since then, the crypt has remained closed. I’m not sure whether visits are intermittent or restricted; however, every time I’ve passed by, it hasn’t been open.

All Hell Broke Loose in Córdoba, Argentina During Police Strike

On December 3rd, 2013, all hell broke loose in Cordoba City. Vandals looted supermarkets, stores, and mom-and-pop shops throughout the city. While some thieves were after food, most of them focused on stealing alcohol and electronics.

Before I get into why things went to sh*t down here, I want to clarify that the images depicting the looting in this post were not taken by me. That’s mainly because there’s no way I would have been dumb enough to be anywhere near that trashy filth seen in these photos.

      

So, what caused this crime spree that made the 1992 L.A. riots look like the Electrical Street Parade at Disney World? The police force!

Only a month after a drug scandal broke out, the cops in Cordoba City demanded an undeserved pay increase, but when the government failed to meet their demands, they went on strike. 

Without local law enforcement, some Cordobeses crossed the line and the city turned to sh*t! 

      

For over 24 hours, Cordoba had no police protection whatsoever. So, people of all ages, skin tone, and gender began looting. 

Although owning guns is not as popular here as it is in the States, some store owners took to firing guns to warn vandals to stay clear of their properties. 

It was essentially like The Purge down here! 

  

    

The real tragedy is that some teens and young adults boasted about their criminal activities on Facebook. Aside from the fact that this is probably the dumbest thing they could have done, it shows a complete lack of remorse for their actions. And if these kids are the future governors, teachers, and doctors of Cordoba City, then I'm cringing already.

I took to social media to see what people were saying about these vandals. For the most part, the general consensus among the Argentine people was the same. They were all ashamed and disgusted by the actions of these thieves.

However, some blamed the government, while others pointed to poverty as the driving force behind the looting. But in my opinion, these are not acceptable excuses for behaving like criminals. I don’t need the police or some alleged sacred book to keep my moral compass in check. As a civilized society, everyone MUST respect each other, their property, and their city.

By Wednesday afternoon, the government gave in to the demands of the police force, and the cops went back to work. 

Order has now been restored… for the most part. However, I read that there were over 60 injuries and at least one death in all this mayhem, not to mention that more than a thousand stores were allegedly damaged.

The remaining photos were taking by me and show how the city bounced back after the looting.

On Thursday, I walked the streets of Cordoba City, and I’ll admit, I was nervous as hell. Not that you could blame me after what happened. But what really shocked me was that life had returned to normal. In fact, there didn’t seem to be any indication that anything had ever happened.

I’m told that while protests are nothing new in Argentina, this type of chaos has not been seen in Cordoba City in nearly 30 years. I can only hope that this is an isolated incident or that the government responds to any future threat with military force. Otherwise, the hubs and I might have to consider getting the hell out of here! 

14 Months Later: Finally Majoring in Psychology at UNC

It's taken 14 months, a lot of traveling, tons of paperwork, major headaches, and over 15,000 Argentine pesos, but on December 2nd, 2013, I was finally able to officially enroll as a psychology student at the "Universidad Nacional De Cordoba (UNC)". 

The first thing I had to do was buy my "Libreta de Estudiante", which is basically a student's personal grade book. It also serves as a student passport of sorts at the university. It only cost me 20 pesos, which is super cheap. 

The line to buy the "Libreta De Estudiante"

I thought the line to get my "Libreta" was long, but it turns out that the line at the psychology building was longer! There must have been hundreds of students waiting in line, and we were all waiting for an assigned registration number that they would begin calling at 11:15 a.m. 

The line to register at the psychology building

The requirements I had to represent were: 

1. A copy of the D.N.I. or passport 
2. 2 photos (the size of those used on passports) 
3. A printout of the online application completely filled out 
4. Libreta De Estudiante 
5. High School Diploma and Transcripts  

This final process was necessary to enroll for the 2014 school year.

Everyone was waiting impatiently, and it didn’t help that the university staff handling the paperwork inside this large classroom were all dicks.
On several occasions, I overheard them talking down to students, suggesting that if we weren’t prepared to present the right paperwork, we should consider quitting before even starting our education. Part of me was hoping I wouldn’t get one of these moody *ssholes because, even with my anti-anxiety meds, I would have lost my sh*t and gone off on them.

Fortunately, it didn’t come to that.

After a good 40 minutes, I was called to the front of the class to turn in my paperwork. I had to present copies of my high school diploma and transcripts, complete with apostilles, notarization, translation, legalization, and finally validation from the Ministry of Education, which I had gotten in Buenos Aires a month earlier. There was some confusion at first because they didn’t know how to handle the fact that all of my education was done in the United States, but it didn’t take long to get everything cleared up.

The classroom where we registered

They finally stamped my "Libreta De Estudiante" and told me I was done. They sounded so bitter about it too, but I didn’t give a f*ck! I was just happy to be done with all this back-and-forth nonsense.

Now I have to wait until December 28th to receive my "cursillo" schedule online. A "cursillo" is like a prerequisite course that all students must take before beginning their first year in the career they’ve chosen. I’m told it will cover two topics: the history of the university and the psychology career, which I’ve picked.

The "cursillo" semester begins in February 2014 and will last about seven weeks. After that, I’ll have to pass a final exam—what they call a "parcial"—in order to begin my first year in the psychology program.

My "Libreta De Estudiante"

If all goes well, I might graduate in five years with a "Licenciatura en Psicología," which is the equivalent of a Master’s degree in Psychology back in the States. With this degree, I’ll be able to practice as a therapist in Córdoba, which isn’t something you can really do with just a Master’s degree in the U.S.

After everything I’ve gone through to get this far, I finally feel like I’ve accomplished something… and I’m genuinely happy, though I suppose that could just be the effects of my meds.

Now all I have to worry about is getting the house ready for the holidays, which, as you can see, my husband and I are well on our way to doing. Until next time...

Buying Property in Argentina: A Guide for Expats in Córdoba and Beyond

UPDATED ON NOVEMBER 26, 2024

A potential expat recently asked me how much it would cost to buy property in Argentina. So, I decided to do some research and this is what I discovered. 

The Cost of Owning a Home

The image is not distorted. The home is on a slope.

The cost of an affordable middle-class home will run you about 500,000 pesos minimum, which is about 81,860 U.S. dollars as of 2013. Some homes can cost over a million Argentine pesos, which is approximately 163,720 U.S. dollars.

Updated on November 26, 2024: As of 2024, the real estate market in Argentina has changed a lot. Due to inflation and currency fluctuations, the cost of a middle-class home in Córdoba now ranges from 40 million to 80 million pesos, roughly $110,000 to $220,000 USD at the current exchange rate of 360 pesos per USD. 

Realtors vs Banks 

I recommend that you buy from a realtor (called an inmobiliaria in Argentina) rather than using a bank to buy your home. A realtor can enhance the value of your U.S. dollars from the average 6 pesos per USD to about 7 or 8 pesos per USD. This enhanced dollar value is known as “Dólar Blue.” This will significantly reduce the cost of the property you want to buy in U.S. dollars. The enhanced dollar process itself is called cotizar.

You can handle the negotiation and purchase of your property with the realtor from the States via phone or email, but I encourage you to visit Argentina and the different neighborhoods first before buying any property. You never want to go in blind. Plus, if you have children, you’re going to want to take a look at the schools in the area. I would avoid public schools here, at least in Córdoba. The private schools are a lot neater and more organized.

Updated on November 26, 2024: The Dólar Blue rate remains a key factor when buying property, with rates now fluctuating around 750 pesos per USD. Private schools are still the recommended option in Córdoba due to their better infrastructure and educational quality.

Best Neighborhoods In Cordoba 

Here are some of the best neighborhoods (barrios) to live in if you move to Córdoba:

• Barrio Maipú
• Barrio Ayacucho
• Nueva Córdoba
• Urca
• Argüello - known for its middle to upper class families
• Valle Escondido - Gated Community

You can also buy property further north in Córdoba, like in “Cerro De Las Rosas,” but it’s much more expensive there.

Updated on November 26, 2024: Cerro De Las Rosas continues to be one of the most prestigious neighborhoods, with property prices now reaching 150 million pesos or more. Nueva Córdoba is also a top choice for expats due to its proximity to amenities.

Neighborhoods To Avoid When Buying Property In Cordoba 

• Alta Córdoba and Cofico: Once considered high-class neighborhoods, these areas have gone downhill. Watch out for thefts and assaults in the area.
• Barrio San Vicente: Not safe at night. There are a lot of break-ins. The daytime isn't so hot either.
• Barrio Colón: It’s okay, but you risk occasional graffiti on your walls, and you can’t park your car outside overnight. It might get vandalized or stolen.
• Barrio Rivadavia: Same explanation as Barrio Colón.
• Barrio Crisol - Same Explanation as Barrio Colon, San Vicente and Rivadavia.

Updated on November 26, 2024: These neighborhoods continue to face security problems. Essentially, they've gotten sh*ttier. For expats, it’s crucial to research and visit these areas personally, as safety levels can vary street by street.

Buenos Aires

If you’ve read my recent entries about my two trips to Buenos Aires this year, you might be encouraged to buy property in the capital of Argentina. I’d like to point out that while I was never a victim of a crime there, some expats and natives have claimed that it’s an unsafe area, especially during political uprisings and protests.

If you choose to move to the capital, then I recommend that you stay within the area known as “La CABA” (Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires). Think of this area as the equivalent to Washington, D.C. Some expats and Argentines have reported that the area beyond “La CABA” is considered dangerous. Think of “La CABA” as Manhattan, and the rest of the Buenos Aires region as Brooklyn and the Bronx.

Updated on November 26, 2024: Real estate in Buenos Aires remains a good option, but safety concerns continue in areas outside La CABA. Property prices in desirable neighborhoods like Palermo, Recoleta, and Belgrano now range from $1,500 to $3,000 USD per square meter, depending on the location and condition of the property.

Renting A Home Or Apartment 

If you choose to rent, the price range for a decent home will cost anywhere from 2,500 (409 USD) to 4,000 (654 USD) Argentine pesos a month. I recommend Nueva Córdoba as it has several condos and apartment complexes. The area is near the downtown area (“El Centro”), where you’ll find several shopping centers, McDonald’s, Burger King, theaters, Starbucks, and bookstores. Nueva Córdoba also happens to be a popular choice for expats and international students.

Updated on November 26, 2024: Rent has increased drastically due to inflation. A one-bedroom apartment in Nueva Córdoba now costs between 180,000 to 300,000 pesos per month, roughly $250 to $400 USD.

Check The Classifieds 

I would check the classifieds from the Argentine newspaper, La Voz Del Interior. This website provides photos of properties, price ranges (in some cases), and realtors (inmobiliarias) to contact.

Updated on November 26, 2024: The La Voz Del Interior classifieds remain a good resource for property searches. However, online platforms like Zonaprop and Argenprop now offer more detailed listings and updated pricing.

RE/MAX Argentina 

Click here to go to the RE/MAX Argentina site. It can also provide you with info and give you access to a local realty company. 

Accountants Versus Lawyers 

No matter what people tell you, lawyers don't have the same value here as they do in the States. So, if you hire one to help you deal with the purchase of properties, you're wasting your freaking time. Hire an accountant instead. Accountants in Argentina know all you need to know about the tax laws and requirements for owning properties.

Learn The Language 

My other piece of advice would be that you learn the basic concept of Spanish, especially the differences between Argentine Castilian and other forms of Spanish commonly heard in Latin America. You’d be surprised by how such subtle differences can result in a huge misunderstanding in Argentina.

In Conclusion

Let me give you one final piece of advice. Stuff like exchange rates and property laws change around here all the time. Although it might seem difficult to keep up, it's not impossible. So don't give up.